Written by: Rich Terepak Sr.
Date: August 3, 2018
My new favorite place is Columbus’ newest deli.
Cameron Mitchell has hit it out of the park with his new deli/restaurant, Harvey and Ed’s, which opened in June at the former Rigsby’s location at 698 North High St in the Short North.
Brian Hinshaw, Mitchell’s executive chef for all locations caught me sneaking in for a late lunch on the restaurant’s second day. He insisted I try a couple of soups first. The soup of the day was a rich and meaty beef barley. It was hearty and densely flavored with generous chunks of beef and still al dente barley ($4 a cup).
Next came the smoked white fish chowder, chunks of white fish and diced potato in a dill cream reduction served with matzo cracker, both heavenly and comforting ($6 a cup).
Next was the best dish I have tasted in town in some time. Among the “Noshes” is listed the Latke Royale, a sizable, perfectly crispy potato cake on a cream-base topped with crème fraiche, several slices of house cured salmon, thin savings of fennel and apple and a large dollop of caviar ($29). What a combination, it’s incredible.
Because it was lunch and I couldn’t consume anything better after the latke, I made reservations for the next evening with my wife so we could sample the generous Rueben ($16) and the Hot Pastrami ($15) sandwiches.
The meats are in-house cured and served on rye shipped in from Chicago. The sandwiches are classically huge and each has approximately 10 ounces of meat. They were wonderful. They come with either house made curly fries, coleslaw or potato salad, staples of any fine deli.
We tried the slaw, crisp in a sweet vinegar and oil and the small but mighty perfectly crisp fries. We finished only half of each sandwich and packed up the rest.
While waiting for our table my wife, Roberta, enjoyed her favorite Sapphire martini, up and dirty with olives ($11) and I tried one of my favorites and a house special, a Negroni, which they prepare in advance and can on sight in generous individual servings. Our dinner was accompanied by a glass of decent granacha ($8).
The restaurant is very well decorated with lots of wood and a handsome lighting. There are low and high tables, booths and a marble counter in front of the open line kitchen where you can watch the magic take place. The servers are incredibly hospitable as they are in each of Cameron’s locations.
In short, I loved the place and will revisit soon to continue to explore the extensive and authentic deli menu.
Harvey and Ed’s
698 North High St in the Short North
Monday – Thursday: 11am – 10pm
Friday: 11am – 11pm