One of the hottest trends on the national, even world restaurant scene is the “gastro-pub,” a bar or pub setting with the emphasis on food.
The Pearl, Cameron Mitchell’s take on gastro-pubs, sure looks like a pub, with brick and dark wood; a large, very busy bar in front; and an open kitchen opposite the bar. On our two visits, The Pearl was lively and jammed; reservations are necessary.
Mitchell’s latest venture has 10 featured draft beers and at least 40 beers by the bottle. There is also a wine list with a number of reasonably priced choices, plus a large array of cocktails
On several weeknight visits with groups, we were able to sample much of the menu.
Among the snacks, which range from $4 – 9, the crispy fried cheese curds were addictive, and we also enjoyed the devils on horseback and house made pickles; all were great.
The nine starters, ranging from $7 – 21, include soup, salads, and other items; we especially enjoyed the charcuterie board, which includes duck terrine, chicken liver pate, sausages, accompaniments, and the hand-cranked sausage sampler, as well as the spoon bread, New England clam chowder, and the salads.
Among the dozen entrees, which start at $12 and go up to $39 for the steak, the short ribs, grilled cheese with brie, pub burger, fried chicken, and fish and chips got strong votes at our tables. There is also an extensive oyster and shellfish section on the menu.
The dessert menu includes fresh pies that are made daily, but not a singe gastro-pub diner at our table had room for dessert.
The Pearl, 641 North High Street in the Short North, open daily at 4 pm, brunch on Saturdays and Sundays at 10 am. 614-227-0151. More information at
– Rick Terapak Sr. and Steve Stover.
Category: Restaurants, Cafes, Bars