The Pearl Makes Its Mark In The Short North

| June 28, 2013 | 0 Comments
Fried Chicken at The Pearl.

Fried Chicken at The Pearl. Photo by Steve Stover.

One of the hottest trends on the national, even world restaurant scene is the “gastro-pub,” a bar or pub setting with the emphasis on food.

The Pearl, Cameron Mitchell’s take on gastro-pubs, sure looks like a pub, with brick and dark wood; a large, very busy bar in front; and an open kitchen opposite the bar. On our two visits, The Pearl was lively and jammed; reservations are necessary.

Mitchell’s latest venture has 10 featured draft beers and at least 40 beers by the bottle. There is also a wine list with a number of reasonably priced choices, plus a large array of cocktails

On several weeknight visits with groups, we were able to sample much of the menu.

Among the snacks, which range from $4 – 9, the crispy fried cheese curds were addictive, and we also enjoyed the devils on horseback and house made pickles; all were great.

The nine starters, ranging from $7 – 21, include soup, salads, and other items; we especially enjoyed the charcuterie board, which includes duck terrine, chicken liver pate, sausages, accompaniments, and the hand-cranked sausage sampler, as well as the spoon bread, New England clam chowder, and the salads.

Among the dozen entrees, which start at $12 and go up to $39 for the steak, the short ribs, grilled cheese with brie, pub burger, fried chicken, and fish and chips got strong votes at our tables. There is also an extensive oyster and shellfish section on the menu.

The Pub Burger at The Pearl.

The Pub Burger at The Pearl. Photo by Steve Stover.

The dessert menu includes fresh pies that are made daily, but not a singe gastro-pub diner at our table had room for dessert.

The Pearl, 641 North High Street in the Short North, open daily at 4 pm, brunch on Saturdays and Sundays at 10 am. 614-227-0151. More information at
thepearlcolumbus.com.

– Rick Terapak Sr. and Steve Stover.

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Category: Restaurants, Cafes, Bars

About the Author ()

The senior Rich Terapak has been the resident restaurant reviewer for WOSU 89.7 for more than 15 years. He has taught cooking as a hobby for over 35 years, first with Jim Budros and for the last 30 plus with Steve Stover. (All of whom are amateurs, but zealots none the less.) Rich has been involved in menu planning for countless charitable events for decades and has often cooked for them as well. He has served as chair or honorary chair for several food related events, most recently as chairs with his wife, Roberta, along with his son and daughter–in-law, Rich and Cindy, for the granddaddy of them all, the CORA Food and Wine Gala for 2012. In his professional life Rich is a partner with the law firm of Porter Wright in Columbus and co-chairs the Health Care practice there.